Where the Danube ends, a labyrinth of channels, reed beds and lakes begins — Europe's best-preserved delta, the size of a small county. Boats leave from Tulcea or Crișan, and a single morning turns up Dalmatian pelicans, herons, pygmy cormorants and ospreys; over three hundred species nest here. The Lipovan fishing villages can only be reached by water, and after dark the silence is complete.