A three-storey pavilion sheathed in gold leaf, standing at the edge of a pond that gives it back whole and upside down: the image of Kyoto that travels the world. Built as a shogun's retirement villa and later made a Zen temple, what you see is the 1955 rebuild after a monk burned it down. The garden circuit is one-way and takes twenty minutes — twenty unforgettable minutes when snow sits on the roof.