The valley floor of the Alzette, seventy metres below the upper town: low houses pressed against the rock, stone bridges, and the old Neumünster abbey turned into a cultural centre. A lift bored through the escarpment drops you down, or you can walk the Montée de Clausen; from below, the fortifications on the ridge look twice as high. After dark this is where the bars are, with tables out to the water's edge in summer.