The main palace of the Joseon dynasty, founded in 1395 and rebuilt after two destructions: vast courtyards with Mount Bugak behind, a throne hall on a stone terrace, and the Gyeonghoeru pavilion standing on forty-eight columns in a pond. The changing of the guard takes place twice a day at Gwanghwamun gate, with drums and coloured cloaks. Arrive in a rented hanbok and you get in free.