A sandbank in the middle of the River Gambia holding what is left of Fort James: broken walls, the footprint of the buildings, cannon lying where they fell. For close to two centuries the island was a holding and shipping point for people bound for the Americas, and the current has eaten most of it since — what stands today is a fraction of the original. Boats cross from Albreda and Juffureh on the north bank, where the slavery museum is.