Nepal's holiest Hindu sanctuary is dedicated to Shiva as lord of the animals, and its golden temple stays shut to non-Hindus — you watch it from the far bank of the Bagmati. That far bank is the point of coming: on the ghats below, cremations burn in the open all day long, in full view of anyone walking past. Sadhus with matted hair and ash-smeared faces live around the site, along with troops of monkeys that help themselves to the offerings.