Ninety kilometres of hairpins vaulting the Făgăraș range at 2,042 metres, ordered by Ceaușescu after the invasion of Czechoslovakia so the army could cross the mountains. It cost six hundred tonnes of dynamite and dozens of lives, and it is now one of Europe's great drives: up between sheer walls to the glacial lake at Bâlea, through the tunnel, then down the far side to the Vidraru dam. Open late June to October only — snow closes it, no exceptions.